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All that remains of Kassapa's pool party days are the murals of topless concubines etched on to the 200m-high rock walls. But I take the long route, meandering by train up into tea country around the alpine 'Little England' town of Nuwara Eliya and climbing to the cloud forest of Horton's Plains to peek over the 2km drop at World's End.

Then I jump a bus from the walkers' paradise of Ella to the empty strands of Tangalla for a little kick-back time. Bring a plug-in mosquito repellent but don't worry about a plug adaptor (most are square-pinned).

Thankfully, the only clamour we encounter on the dirt roads that our week-long bike tour favours is the rush of several classes of uniformed children screaming 'hellooo!

' from the windows of their rural primary school, or the shoals of motorbikes with boxes of fish strapped on the back when we wheel our bikes through the street-side fish market of a coastal village.

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But if you're feeling intrepid, it's worth seeking the less travelled path.

January 24–28, 2018, The 20th-century Bawa brothers were colourful characters.

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